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Writer's pictureAnju Chandna

Bullfighting in Madrid - Gut-wrenching sport or sporty ordeal?

Updated: Jul 1

A vacation to Spain can throw open a plethora of must-do-activities for you, visiting iconic monuments like Alhambra and the famous Roman Catholic Church The La Sagrada Familia, experiencing the rich cultural heritage of the country, seeing the sun-kissed beaches, tasting the divine ‘Sangria’, making a trip to the football hubs of Real Madrid and FC Barcelona, spending one full day at the crazily adventurous La Aventura amusement park, watching a show of the mesmerizing Flamenco dance and last but not the least going to the bullring in Madrid.

While planning our vacation to Spain, this last bit about the bullfight was just one of the many attractions featured in our itinerary.

I was really excited about watching the flamenco show in Seville while my boys had set their hearts on going to the bullfight in Madrid.

We had designated a half day for this ‘sightseeing’ and made an online reservation well in advance. There are very few countries in the world that permit bullfighting, Spain being one of the frontrunners in this sport, there was no way that we would miss such an outing, especially with our two grown-up boys around who were desperate to see some real gore-and-blood sport. You know how boys are!


In front of Plaza de Toros Madrid Spain

Entrance to the Bullfight Arena, Madrid - Plaza de Toros


The venue for bullfighting is the bullring in Madrid ‘Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas’ or ‘Las Ventas’ as it is popularly known.

We reached a bit early and were quite surprised to see hordes of people already flocking near the gate of the arena waiting to enter.

There were hardly any tourists to be seen, one can always make out tourists from the local people by the lost look of anticipation on the former’s faces.

Visitors looked like regulars to the arena since none of them was taking any pictures or buying souvenirs.

Finally, the gates opened and we were thrilled to get seats with a front view of the entrance where all the action was going to take place.

The huge arena started to fill up with thousands of people pouring in.

The bullring in Madrid has a seating capacity of 25,000 people and in no time we were scrambling for our seats.



The arena was full to the brim in no time...


The interesting part is that all kinds of people could be seen.

We had a young Spaniard sitting on our right who looked like some school teacher to me, calm demeanour and casually sipping on his drink.

An elderly couple, sounding more like Brits on a tour of Spain, also waiting for the show to begin.

In the front row was a group of middle-aged men who appeared to have come straight out of some cowboy movie of the ’70s with all of them donning hats, smoking cigars and wearing tight-waisted jackets.

The stage is now set for the action to unfold.

The performance begins with an ‘entourage’ entering the arena comprising of horsemen, a Matador conspicuously attired and holding a magenta and gold cape who appears to be the group leader.

They go around the arena in a circle as if to acknowledge the guests or inspect the arena.


Matadors enter the bullfighting arena in Plaza de Toros Madrid


Men mounted on horses going around the arena before the bullfight at Plaza de Toros in Madrid

The colourful 'Entourage' entering the arena..........amidst cheers from the crowd!


I get busy clicking pictures and making videos of the act. We are so excited to be a part of this traditional ritual of Spain.

There is a sound of the bugle and there we have a bull running into the ring. The matador is perhaps trying to gauge the ferocity of the bull, he waves the cape towards him and runs around to create some drama!


A bull charges at the cape in bullfighting arena at Plaza de Toros Madrid

The bull charging at the cape swung by the matador


The colourful elaborate costumes, the energy and agility of the matador combined with his prowess in handling the bull and his effortless yet careful demeanour on the ground is enthralling.

There is a lot of hooting and cheering all around. No wonder these matadors are so popular in this part of the world. They are nothing short of movie stars and enjoy a huge fan following.

It appears as if there is a sudden rush of adrenaline in the arena. We also cheer on and wait in anticipation for what comes next.

In a split second, the matador turns away and the man on horseback or ‘Picador’ comes up from behind the bull and stabs a barbed stick viciously in the neck of the bull.



The sudden spurt of blood from the fresh wound on the neck of the bull is unnerving and my camera falls from my hands into my lap.


The bull weakened by the constant stabbing by the matadors at Plaza de Toros in Madrid

The bull weakened by the constant stabbing looks around haplessly for help that doesn't seem to come!


There are 3 banderilleros on the ground and each one tries to stab the bull with their barbed sticks on its shoulder. They are trying to agitate the bull and also weaken it.

The sight is so ghastly that I’ve lost my interest already just 15 minutes into the show.

The man on horseback stabs again with his lance and injures the bull once again.


A Picador stabbing the bull viciously on its back during the bullfight

Call it sheer ignorance, but nothing could’ve prepared me for such violence. In the meantime, the matador is trying to put on a display for the cheering crowds.

I can’t deny that he was incredibly graceful with his movements and manoeuvres with the cape.

He goes around the bull and tries to stab it with his banderilla.

The movements are fake and are done only to create a theatrical effect but the blood and the wounds on the bull’s back are real, I tell myself. I brace myself to see what’s more to come.

The bull is getting angrier by the moment and the crowd is going into a frenzy shouting slogans like ‘mata…lo..mata lo’ meaning kill it in Spanish as we later learnt.

The cow-boy look-alikes sitting in our front row are in their full element. They are shouting and jeering. I look at the teacher-like guy sitting next to us who looked so quiet earlier and now looks possessed by something. He’s shouting at the top of his voice.

As if in response to these demands by the crowd, the matador suddenly turns and with a sharp twist of the sword pierces the bull’s heart and kills it. There is an uproar of approval in the arena all around. The scene is so gory that I cringe and look away.

When I look up I’m shocked to see people standing and cheering in the stands and waving white handkerchiefs in appreciation of the matador’s feat. Later we learnt that the white handkerchief is waved to urge the presiding chief to award the matador with an ear of the dead bull as a souvenir.

We all look at each other and my sons who were so eager to come for this spectacle look equally perturbed. The first thought that crosses my mind when looking at them is ‘God I’m really grateful’.

Seeing my children behave like maniacs in the face of such violence along with the other thousands of people would’ve broken my heart.

My younger son looks at me imploring me to leave. As we nudge each other to get up thinking that this is the end of that day’s event, we discover that there’s more to come. Another bull enters the arena and the drill is repeated all over again. Then yet again and again and again. This drill is repeated five times over, five bulls are killed and the ‘revelry’ in the ring is like nothing I have ever seen before.

We just want to get out of this madness but there are people everywhere with not an inch of space to move. So, we wait for this ‘sporty’ ordeal to finally get over.


Did we like the sport? Was it a sport at all? Five armed men on foot and horseback tried to overpower a bull not just by force but by deception.

The spurt of blood oozing out of the necks of those innocent animals who can feel the pain but have no words to express it.

If we believe that animals too have souls and that they can relate to love and emotions as well, then I’m sure the poor hapless bull could very well relate to the 25,000-odd people jeering at it and rejoicing in its death.

Can anything be more inhuman than this?



There are many reasons to visit Spain. Click on the links below to find out more about Spain and things to do in Spain.


Want to see the Spanish capital? Click on the link below


Take a trip to Barcelona, Spain's most visited city. Read more about Barcelona


I have written about our experience at Port Aventura in the link below


The absolutely not-to-miss city of Seville, Spain


Watching a Flamenco show in Seville



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