Going to Varanasi, also known as Benaras or Kashi is every pilgrim's dream.
As per popular Hindu belief, taking a dip in the holy Ganges on the banks of Kashi can absolve the person of all his or her past life sins. And leaving one's mortal body in Kashi is a sure-shot route to salvation. But Varanasi offers more than just salvation....
The city is a pulsating reminder of the ethos of Hinduism, that religion is a celebration, it's an integral part of life, not just for the living but also for the dead. Little wonder then that Manikarnika Ghat on the banks of the Ganges is always burning with funeral pyres while alongside, the banks on the opposite side of the river are buzzing with people as they go about their daily routines, washing laundry, bathing and offering holy water to the Sun God.
The inevitable cycle of life and death is on full display at these ghats at all times.
We reached Varanasi in the evening. The roads leading to the ghats are extremely crowded in the evening as tourists throng them to see the Ganga Arti.
We decided to start our sightseeing the next morning with a visit to the Assi Ghat.
There are 10 things that you must see and experience in Varanasi
1. 'Subah-e-Banaras' at Assi Ghat
This is the first must-do thing on our itinerary.
Assi ghat is known for 'Subah-e-Banaras', a cultural extravaganza that is held at 5:00 a.m. every morning.
The setting is simple yet aesthetic, people can sit on chairs or the steps around the ghat.
In the background of a very enthusiastic rendition of Vedic hymns by young children of the nearby Gurukul, young men clad in red dhotis, holding brass oil lamps in their hands make powerful, graceful movements in sync with the recital to worship the Ganges.
My Tip -
Stay a little longer around the place. Once the Arti is done, the scene shifts to a small stage on the side of the ghat for some classical recital. The soulful voice of the singer welcoming the morning Sun is nothing short of magical.
Magical mornings with Subah-e-Banaras!
2. Kashi Vishwanath Temple
From Assi Ghat, we hire a boat to reach the main attraction of Varanasi, the famed Kashi Vishwanath Temple. This is the highlight of the trip to Varanasi.
The temple has a 'Jyotirlinga', a symbolic representation of Lord Shiva in his 'Vishwanath Roop', meaning Ruler of the world.
The temple complex can be approached from the river and the city side.
As we approach the temple, the huge impressive facade of the temple becomes visible.
Very close to the temple complex is the Manikarnika Ghat.
There is so much activity around the ghat in the morning, some fresh pyres are spewing thick smoke into the air, and the sight makes me unwittingly cringe.
Our boatman senses my discomfort and has an interesting folklore to share.
He tells us that it is believed that the continual funeral pyres at the ghat are also a reminder of the continuity of life, that on any given day if no funeral pyre is lit at the ghat, then all life on earth will come to an end.
Talking of folklore, there is an abundance of them in this most ancient city of the world. Every autorickshaw driver, every chai wallah (tea vendor) and every other local has one to share.
The temple complex is massive with a long corridor leading to the Sanctum Sanctorum. There are beautifully adorned statues along the way.
Beautiful statue of Bharat Mata in the corridor....first look at the temple that houses the Jyotirling... beautiful graffiti on the wall behind the temple complex!
My Tip -
Reach early before the crowds thicken.
Pilgrims visiting the temple are not allowed to carry phones, wallets, belts, shoes or any other item made of leather. There are safe deposit lockers right outside the temple.
The golden spire of the main temple is visible from the outside
The main temple houses a black stone Jyotirlinga, placed imposingly on a silver pedestal, with some small jyotirlingas all around.
We join the queue leading to the Jyotirlinga, with folded hands and fervorous chanting of 'Om Namah Shivay' and 'Om Vishwanath', we look at the Jyotirlinga of the Ruler of the World in awe as we go by.
There are colonnades all around the main temple housing other deities too. On less crowded days, one needs about an hour to see the temple and do the darshan.
3. Ram Bhandar - Eatery
The morning darshan has left our souls rejuvenated to face the crowded and turbulent world once again.
Now we head to the famous 'Ram Bhandar', a small roadside eatery that has shot to fame because of its sumptuous breakfast menu of Sabji-kachori and jalebi.
Be prepared to wait for at least an hour before you get your breakfast and to eat it practically sitting on the roadside, that too in a dingy lane.
My Tip -
In all honesty, there was a lot of hype around this eatery, so we came like everyone else before us.
Sorry for the spoiler, but the food was average, not worth the effort and the wait!
Ideally, this should not be on the must-see list but everyone will tell you to go to Ram Bhandar, so I thought it's wise to give a heads-up.
4. Bengali Tola
Varanasi has always been known to attract sages and saints from all walks of life. One such saint is Mahavatar Babaji, or the deathless Guru as he is called.
It is believed that he is the human incarnation of Lord Shiva himself.
His disciple, Lahiri Mahasya's ashram is in Bengali Tola in Varanasi.
I read about this many years ago in the book 'Autobiography of a Yogi' by Paramhansa Yogananda. The urge to see the ashram has lingered in my mind ever since.
So, after breakfast, we head to Bengali Tola. We walk through the narrow lanes and by-lanes of Varanasi for at least half an hour, enquiring from passersby about the Lahiri Mahasya Ashram. Finally, we reach the ashram only to learn that it is not open to the public at all times. We waited for about an hour near the Ganga-ghat for the ashram to open.
The ashram is a small residential complex of Lahiri Mahasya, with statues of Mahavatar Babaji and Satya Charan Lahiri and a small temple.
It's not a museum, it's just about the life of Lahiri ji and how he got catapulted from being an ordinary man to the status of sainthood.
My Tip -
The ashram is not spectacular if that's what one expects. But there is a magnetism in that place that is hard to miss. We spent about 30 minutes in the ashram, soaking in the spiritual vibe all around.
A small cave room for Mahavatar Babaji and Mahasya Lahiri house
5. Sankat Mochan Temple
Varanasi is home to a lot of temples.
This temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman, the monkey God, is held in great reverence by Hindus. The temple has scores of monkeys living in and around it.
The saint poet Tulsidas, who wrote the Ramayana, established this temple in the 16th century.
My Tip -
The temple attracts lots of visitors but it is fairly organised and the massive queues keep moving, so waiting time is very little.
6. Durga Temple
Very close to the Sankat Mochan Temple is the Durga Temple.
This is one of the most famous temples in Varanasi since the folklore states that the idol of Ma Durga in this temple was not made by human hands. It is believed to have appeared on its own at the site of the temple.
My Tip -
If you're a believer, then one doesn't need any coaxing to visit the temple of Durga Mata.
7. Godowlia Chowk
Your visit to Varanasi is incomplete without spending one evening scouting around the famous Godowlia Chowk.
The entire zone is pedestrian-only and you will find a sea of people thronging the shops and eateries there.
Some famous eateries that offer mouth-watering delights are Kashi Chat Bhandar and Deena Chat Bhandar.
These places offer delicious local Banarasi fare at very reasonable prices and are really crowded. I have never seen so many people waiting to eat in a restaurant ever.
And the best part is there is no jostling or pushing, people are just patiently standing around in groups, waiting for their turn.
My Tip -
We have seen so many town squares in so many cities of the world, which are pedestrian zones. But the rustic country vibe in this chowk is amazing.
8. Sarnath
The next morning we travel about 13 km to see Sarnath.
Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon in Sarnath and founded Buddhism.
The entire complex has many stupas and an 80-foot-tall statue of Lord Buddha.
The place is clean and quiet, one can easily spend two hours seeing the sights, including the famous Ashoka Pillar with the Indian Emblem on it.
There are some more temples built by China, Japan and Sri Lanka too. The place has a lot of historical significance and is fun to watch.
My Tip -
The moment we reached the parking slot in Sarnath, all kinds of guides thronged us from all sides. Most of them claim that they are students at the university nearby and are doing this as a part of their training.
Please make it a point to check their ID to see if they are authorised guides. The guide we got cooked up some fictional stories and facts to entertain us, which I later discovered, was all false. So, be choosy when it comes to hiring a guide. Certify his credentials before he starts with his stories.
If you're travelling with kids, then they would be thrilled to see so many historical artefacts in one place.
Replica of our National Emblem
Buddha temple, the 80-foot-tall statue in Sarnath and the Stupa
9. Ganga River Cruise
In the evening, we have bookings for a cruise on the river Ganges that goes by the name of Alaknanda Cruises.
The cruise starts at 5:45 pm each day from Assi Ghat and ends at 7:30 pm, bringing you back to the same point.
The air-conditioned boat has provisions for refreshments and some beverages. It has a PA system that runs a commentary in both Hindi and English as it sails by the various ghats.
The beautiful temple complex is lit up at night!
The boat goes down the river, showcasing the entire history of Varanasi which is intricately entwined with its 84 ghats.
My Tip -
The boat cruise is a wonderful experience. The entire history of Varanasi has been put on display here along the banks of the river. The commentary is crystal clear and very informative.
The boat goes past the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Manikarnika Ghat...
By the end of the ride, the boat parks itself close to the Dashashwamedh Ghat for a spectacular Ganga Arti. The scene at the Arti has to be experienced, it cannot be expressed in plain words.
10. Evening Arti at Dashashwamedh Ghat
There are people everywhere, in front of the ghat, on boats, big and small, on boat cruises, on luxury boats of the nearby hotels, perched on rooftops all around the ghat, on the streets nearby, everywhere.
The Ganga Arti starts with the customary jingling of bells and conches and then the fire is lit in big brass lamps to worship the river Ganges and its master Lord Shiva.
People on the boat scramble to the side of the Arti and watch the spectacle with bated breath.
The distinct blue pillars of Dashashwamedh Ghat, the brightly lit umbrella-like canopies, and the sound of conches and bhajans as they echo on the gentle rustling waters of the Ganges create a dazzling effect for the pilgrims.
The Arti and the pageantry surrounding it will remain etched in our minds forever! This is undoubtedly a must-see attraction.
Spellbinding experience of the Ganga Arti
If you have time, then you can explore the vast variety of rich Banarasi silk sarees. There are shops all over the city offering goods for all kinds of budgets.
The prices at most shops are negotiable, so you can try your bargaining skills!
We spent three days on the streets of Varanasi, looking at the sights, soaking in the raw exuberance of life here, tasting its many delicious delights, visiting temples or just looking at them from the outside because there is a temple at every nook and corner of the city, even saw death being celebrated so closely, listening with awe to the folklore..
At the end of it all, I realized that people come to Varanasi to find salvation, to find themselves. And the ones who truly find themselves are the ones who have the courage to lose themselves in the crowds here!