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  • Witnessing the horror: A visit to the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh

    A visit to the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh, famously known as the Killing Fields, is an unsettling experience, to say the least. Unsettling, because it brings to the fore the vulnerability and fragility of the political systems we live in and take so much for granted. The fact that one man, a political despot, Pol Pot , could steer a civil revolution to the point where almost three million innocent Cambodians were killed mercilessly by their own people within a span of four years, from 1975 to 1979, is baffling. The external link that I've pasted above will give you an insight into the ideology that went into this movement, although no ideology can justify the brutality that was meted out to the Cambodian people, including young children and infants. Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre....These pictures below speak for themselves After spending about an hour at the Genocide Centre, we headed to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Also known as Security Prison 21 under the infamous Khmer Rouge regime, this was a secondary school which got converted into an interrogation and detention centre. The regime followed a policy of guilt-by-association, so entire families of suspects were held hostage here, including young children. At the time of the downfall of the Khmer Rouge regime, four children from this facility made it out alive. On your visit, you can meet three of those four survivors, interact with them and read their heart-rending memoirs in the books they've written about their ordeals at the detention centre. We learnt from our guide that these survivors come to the centre every day to share their haunting memories and let the world know what happened in Cambodia under the Khmer Rouge regime. I'd like to share 5 important tips for your visit to these sites Opt for a conducted tour Although you can visit the centre on your own, to truly comprehend the nature and extent of this mindless massacre, a local guide is required. Most travel platforms offer half-day tours to both of these sites, costing between USD 20.00 to USD 25.00 per person for a 4-hour round trip. In case you do not opt for a tour, then an audio guide is available for information about the exhibits. Mind your dress code The mood around the Genocide Centre and the Museum is very sombre. Visitors are expected to behave and dress appropriately, with shoulders and knees covered. If you are wearing something that doesn't adhere to the dress code, you can rent scarves and sarongs from the ticket counter for a nominal fee. Some of the sites are ghastly and unsettling, as I've mentioned earlier. If you're overtly sensitive, then please use your discretion before visiting. The museum has issued an age recommendation for visitors, as per the advisory, exhibits are inappropriate for visitors aged less than 14 years. Photography at the sites is allowed, but visitors are expected to do so with sensitivity and maintain decorum. Some pics from the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum The atmosphere, both at the Genocide Centre and the Museum, is very grim. The moans of the innocent victims of this genocide have died down, but the pain of human suffering still hangs in the air, along with the human spirit that refuses to die down, even in the face of such extreme violence.

  • Rendezvous with God - A journey to Kailash Mansarovar

    On June 11th, 2012, as I stood huddled together with my husband at the staggering height of 5500m (Mount Everest is 8868m) on the Dolma La Pass with Mount Kailash in the background, to get a picture clicked for posterity, I felt a numbness in my toes and a joy in my heart. This was the culmination of an arduous journey to Mount Kailash, believed to be the sacrosanct abode of Lord Shiva, the ‘Destroyer’ in the Hindu Trinity of Gods. This trip was not a vacation for me. Vacations are journeys that give us a view of the outside world. This was a pilgrimage, a journey inside, into the unexplored consciousness that remains dormant in most of us and gets silenced in the humdrum of life. Mount Kailash is held in great reverence by Hindus worldwide as it is considered to be the abode of Lord Shiva on this earth. Since childhood, I’d heard mythological stories of Lord Shiva residing here on Mount Kailash with Goddess Parvati as his consort. As I stand on the highest point of the glacier, my mind races through pictures of Lord Shiva sitting on the mountaintop, his eyes half closed, deep in meditation with a serpent around his neck and a crescent moon on his hair locks. I smile inwardly at the naivety of the thought. Lord Shiva is not the name of some deity sitting on the mountain. He is the supreme spirit who is everywhere, yet nowhere. I am pleasantly surprised to notice that there are no man-made structures to mark Lord Shiva’s presence on Mount Kailash. The nothingness of this raw beauty is terrifying and enchanting at the same time. The white frozen glaciers, merciless cold winds and snow-laden peaks peering at us from all sides, in perfect harmony with each other, unflinching in their presence. This certainly looks like God’s abode to me! Gautam, my husband can sense that I am overwhelmed by my surroundings and numb with cold. He nudges me to move, he knows the pitfalls of staying too long at this height. We've been instructed by the local guide to not spend more than a couple of minutes at the peak, the high altitude and lack of oxygen can play havoc with one’s reflexes and can throw one into unconsciousness. Gautam extends his hand to hold mine. There is a finality in this moment of the journey that started a week ago. We look around in awe, trying to inscribe the scenery in our minds, the huge mammoths of snow stare back at us. We head back. The other side of the mountain is steep downhill. The rarefied air, the coldness gripping my feet and the strange magnetism of this place is making me breathless. We quietly walk behind each other on that narrow path, the towering peaks bear witness that we were here. On the side of the gorge is the snow-filled valley called 'Gauri Kund', the mythological frozen lake, and the bathing pond of Goddess Parvati. Our sole aim is to get back to the nearest campsite ‘Zuthulphuk’ before darkness falls. The formidable journey from Delhi to Kathmandu.... to China.... to Lake Mansarovar .... The exciting journey to the revered Mount Kailash started from my domicile in Delhi, India 7 days ago. Nestled deep inside the Trans-Himalayan region, travelling to Kailash from India requires a multitude of official paperwork and formalities since it lies in the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. We were perhaps destined to travel since everything fell into place, including the visas, medical tests etc. In no time, I found myself preparing for the journey. We had booked an ‘All-flight’ route plan with a travel agent who specialised in tours to Mount Kailash. Round Air trip takes about 12 days to complete and is considered the quickest. The land route, on the other hand, takes over a month to complete, is believed to be tedious and roads are not your best friend in this part of the world. As D-Day approached, the anxiety of travelling to a destination known for its unforgiving terrain, unpredictable weather and very basic amenities gripped my head in a medley of thoughts. The idea of leaving my two little children under my mother’s care for so many days did nothing to assuage my frayed nerves. Entry permit to China is generally procured collectively for groups of pilgrims from India. We were travelling with a motley group of eighteen people, all strangers to each other initially. By the time the trip came to an end though, we had shared some of the most bizarre yet memorable moments of our lives. From flying in small dingy aircraft on isolated airstrips where we had to clumsily scramble over cargo to get to the rear of the plane to reach our seats, to buying odd-looking woollen caps from a kiosk in a remote Chinese town to cover our noses from the biting cold. After five days of extensive travel via Kathmandu, Nepal and the border towns of Tibet and China, we arrived at the Holy Lake Mansarovar (Height 4590m). The lake lies in front of Mount Kailash, the single-block pyramid mountain covered with pristine white snow is visible in all its glory from here as it juts out imposingly from behind the bluish waters of the lake. A short drive takes us from Lake Mansarovar to ‘Yama Dwar’ (Literally translating into ‘The gateway to heaven’, ‘Yama’ being the God of death). This is the last point of the motorable road. 'Kora' Circum-ambulation of the mountain The challenging part of the pilgrimage starts from Yama Dwar, that of doing the circum-ambulation, ‘Kora’ as it’s called, of Mount Kailash. ‘Kora’ lasts 3 days, covers a stretch of 52 kilometres around the mountain and can be done either on foot or on horseback. It is not for the faint-hearted, we’ve been told. Walking uphill in the thin mountain air can be strenuous. On the other hand, sitting perched on a pony over a treacherous mountain trek where the slightest misstep could plunge a person into a bottomless gorge is equally scary. Not surprisingly though, a lot of pilgrims terminate their journey at the foothill of the mountain at Lake Mansarovar. They take a dip in the freezing waters of the lake, take a good view of Mount Kailash and return home, hoping for salvation. Our group count has also come down from eighteen to ten, thanks to some scary narratives of a Russian group of mountaineers who had returned the day before. They had experienced heavy snowfall and had to sledge down the mountainside to reach base camp. Using a slippery mountainside as an inclined plane cannot be a very inviting prospect even for the most devout pilgrims. Visualising myself sliding down makes my heart sink and my blood pressure rise. But having come this far, we take our chances and after some deliberation proceed ahead on a pony. We completed the circum-ambulation of Mount Kailash in 3 days. The journey is difficult, to say the very least. But unlike the Russian mountaineers, we did not have to sledge down the mountain. The sunny weather without a speck of cloud in the sky for the entire length of the journey made our descent rather easy. The journey to Kailash Mansarovar ends on a high note... As we approached Lake Mansarovar after the round trip from the other side of the mountain, I couldn’t help but feel humbled.......humbled by the realization of our insignificance in the larger scheme of things that are beyond our knowledge and comprehension. This humility was also coupled with pride. Pride over the fact that I, for once, could utterly disregard the needs of my physical body, wean it away from all kinds of material comforts that we are so used to back home and still experience inexplicable happiness that all the comforts of the world put together cannot buy!

  • Saxon Switzerland - Day trip to the stunning sandstone mountains on the East end of Germany

    Switzerland is the epitome of natural beauty, so little wonder then, that this beautiful national park in Germany has been named Saechsische Schweiz or Saxon Switzerland, the Switzerland of Saxony. A day trip to Saxon Switzerland, to the ruggedly beautiful landscape of sandstone mountains, will take around 3 to 3.5 hours from Berlin, the capital of Germany. The national park is a popular destination for day trips not only from Germany but also from the neighbouring city of Prague in the Czech Republic. The Czech part of the park is called Bohemian Switzerland. If you happen to be in Dresden, then this wonderland is only a 75-minute drive away from its entrance. Dresden is also the closest airport to the park. I visited this place as a part of a student group along with a German family way back in 2004. In 2023, we went to Prague and I happened to go back to this fairyland again. Believe me, nothing has changed over the last 19-odd years. I have written a separate post on our trip to Bohemian Switzerland from Prague. https://www.journeys2memories.com/post/day-trip-to-bohemian-switzerland-from-prague Occupying an area of only 94 square kilometres, the park is one of the smallest national parks and has the distinction of being the only non-Alpine Rock National Park in Germany. It lies in the Elbe Sandstone Mountain region of Germany and shares its borders with the Bohemian Switzerland National Park in the Czech Republic. On the Czech side of the park, lies the Pravcicka Gate, the largest stone arch in Europe. This picture was taken from the Czech side in 2023 of the beautiful Elbe Valley Saxon Switzerland, Germany What makes the Saxon Switzerland National Park special - Entry to this spectacular park is free of charge. The park is open all year round and there are no opening and closing hours. The entry fee applies only to the Felsenburg Rock Fort in that area. - The park is easily accessible by road. A lot of day trips from Dresden take you to the Czech side of the park as well to show the Pravcicka Arch, the largest natural arch in Europe. - The park has some very intriguing topography, both in the form of Mesas or table mountains and also some very steep cliffs. - If you're a hiking enthusiast, then this park is tailor-made for you. With over 1100 rock peaks to scale, you will be spoilt for choice - There are multitudes of climbing routes that take you to these peaks, almost 14000 of them! - There is a whole set of Saxon rules for climbing that you have to adhere to while climbing the rocks. The entire park has signposts with instructions for hikers so that they don't get lost in the park. As long as you stick to the hiking path, you should be okay. Please refer to their website for more information https://www.saechsische-schweiz.de/en/ Things to do and see in the Saxon Switzerland National Park Bastei Bridge Bastei Bridge, Saxon Switzerland This 76.5-meter-long bridge joins the massive rock structures and has many look-out points on both the left and right sides that offer spectacular views of the Elbe Valley. This is a wooden bridge and walking over the bridge is a thrilling experience for tourists. Schrammsteine This stunning rock formation is a paradise for climbers and hikers, identifiable by its pointed, jagged peaks. Views from the above are breathtaking. There are gorges, caves, castles and fortresses along the way. Fortress Koenigstein The top of the fortress along the river Elbe offers truly awe-inspiring views of the surrounding landscape. Elbe Valley The entire landscape around the Elbe Valley is home to a lot of water sports like canoeing, kayaking and a host of other water activities. A lot of educational trips with audio guides are also available at the park. They gave us some very interesting insights into the history of the area. Don't miss out on this wonderland of nature carved out by rock, wind and water for you!

  • Travelling with Kids to Hong Kong? Try this action-packed itinerary about things to do in Hong Kong

    Hong Kong needs no introduction. This small country is the favourite destination of tourists, young and old alike, and families looking for exciting getaways for their kids. It has much to offer tourists by way of an impressive skyline dotted with skyscrapers, an array of man-made attractions, natural beauty by way of its marine parks, beautiful beaches and an English-speaking population in the backdrop of a typical bustling metropolis to top it all. City attractions start from the airport itself. We had gone there for Christmas, the airport wore a very celebratory look to welcome tourists. The entire city seemed to have a very celebratory vibe. There was never a dull moment in our entire 7-day itinerary with a complete list of things to do in Hong Kong! The city boasts of a very efficient transport system, is well-connected to the airport, safe and reasonably priced. Day One Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade We landed in Hong Kong in the afternoon. There was a long list of things we wanted to do and see, we set out on our adventure in the evening starting with the 'Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade' with its famous Avenue of Stars along the waterfront with beautiful vistas of the South China Sea. Life-like statues of prominent celebrities like Bruce Lee are a hot favourite among tourists who queue up to take pictures with the legend. Some art installations are also erected along the harbourfront. My Tip - The entire promenade is a Pedestrian-only zone and it buzzes with people in the evening, you can start walking along the Central Star Ferry pier to get beautiful views of Victoria Harbor. The area has to be seen and experienced for the glorious views of the Hong Kong skyline. Since we were there around the new year, the entire harbourfront had been lit up. Victoria Harbour, Hong Kong Victoria Harbour, all lit up to usher in the New Year Day 2 Peak Tram This is a funicular railway ride lasting about 8 to 10 minutes to Peak Tower, a commercial hub at 396 meters above sea level. One can reach the Peak Tower by other means of transport as well, but going by the Peak tram is exhilarating as the tram glides at a sharp incline past tall skyscrapers and the entire city skyline begins to unfold in front of you. Peak Tram to the Peak Tower The stylish outer facade of the Peak Tower is matched by the dazzling interiors replete with restaurants, shopping arcades and beautiful vistas of the city from the top. The iconic Madame Tussauds Wax Museum is also located here. Stunning views from the top of the Peak Tower..... My Tip - What you need to watch out for are the long queues, first to board the tram and then at the Peak Tower itself. The crowds thicken as the day progresses. So, try to reach as early as possible. A word of advice about the wax museum. If you've seen the first wax museum in London, then you can give this one a miss. This is not a match to the original in terms of the overall experience. Our kids had not seen a wax museum earlier, so missing it was out of the question. They thoroughly enjoyed the outing, so it was worth its while! You can spend the rest of the day wandering about the beautiful open terraces around the Peak Tower, look at the city from the top and wait for the beautiful sunset over the South China Sea. Day 3 Disneyland This was the big day that we had all been eagerly waiting for. To Hongkong Disneyland. We started early to catch the Disneyland Resort Line from Sunny Bay Station. The Disney line runs every few minutes, is still always crowded and the ride on this cute train with windows cut out in Disney shapes is absolutely thrilling. What can I say about Disneyland? If you're travelling with kids, then they would probably know everything beforehand. There are one-day and two-day passes available and scores of other options to buy tickets. Although a one-day pass is sufficient to see all the attractions and enjoy all the rides. Things to remember about Disneyland are, One, Disneyland is huge, so it's best to depend on the Disney train to move around. Walking can be very time-consuming and exhausting. So, follow the train route and timings for a hassle-free trip. Two, the Disney Parade timings keep changing, please check the timings of the parade on the day of arrival. You definitely wouldn't want to miss this colourful spectacle. Three, some attractions like Mystic Manor and Grizzly Gulch have really long queues. I have seen families dividing their waiting time in queues between family members which makes a lot of sense among all the crowds. And lastly, and most importantly, the nighttime fireworks show is spectacular. However tired you might be, waiting for that show is totally worth it! The last train from Disneyland leaves when the fireworks show is over. The train is overcrowded and everyone around is tired from the excitement of the day but the thrilling moments spent during the day in this fantasy land are priceless! Day 4 Macau After the euphoric trip to Disneyland, we prepare for yet another exciting trip to Macau on Day 4. Macau is 60 km from Hong Kong and like HK, it is a Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China. One can take a ferry or a bus to Macau which takes about 40 minutes to reach. The moment the bus reaches the outskirts of Macau, the towering engineering marvels all around are sure to make you gasp in awe. No wonder it's called the 'Vegas of the East'. The swanky and stylish Macau! A lot of people opt to stay in Macau to explore its many casinos. We had planned only a day trip, so we started our outing with The Venetian, a Venice-themed resort and casino. The Venetian is a mammoth structure with sprawling shopping arcades, restaurants, casinos, and a look-alike Venetian canal with gondolas and the works. At the Venetian - Don't miss the crowds in the background! The Venetian is lively at all times; on the day of our visit an Ice Exhibition was going on 'Ice World with the Dreamworks Gang'. The ice exhibition was absolutely delightful. They created amazing artwork and characters out of ice. You can check the Venetian website for more such events ahead of your visit to Macau and plan your trip accordingly. Apart from the Venetian, there is Fisherman's Wharf on the outer harbour of Macau. It is the largest themed entertainment complex in Macau. One of the most interesting sights in the complex is the Roman Amphitheater which is a replica of the Colosseum of Rome. There is a multitude of attractions in the complex, you need a full day to explore it at leisure. We ended our Macau outing on a euphoric high. My Tip - Macau is every bit swanky and is known for its many malls and casinos, But there is more to Macau. It also has a lesser-known 'Historic Centre of Macau', a UNESCO World Heritage, with cobbled streets, Buddhist temples and old colonial structures. If you plan to stay in Macau, then you can walk around the city to the various attractions. Most popular casinos have shuttle bus services to ferry tourists around. Day 5 We had planned to go to Ocean Park, Hong Kong. Like Disneyland, this is a must-see attraction, especially if you're travelling with kids. We had heard a lot of good things about the park, its cable car ride and the signature night show of the park. The best time to visit this park is from October to December when it's sunny and dry. Unfortunately, on the day we had planned to go, it was rainy and very cold. Spending a day out in an open park was not an inviting prospect. We had to skip Ocean Park, much to the disappointment of our kids. In an ideal scenario, this park should be included in your 7-day itinerary. We were staying on Waterloo Road, there was a Ladies' Market across the street. We spent the day shopping in the market which had a wide variety of goods, bags, clothes, shoes, souvenirs et al. Day 6 Lantau Island After a very dull Day 5, we woke up to clear skies again on Day 6, so we decided to head to Lantau Island. Lantau is the largest island in Hong Kong and the route by road to Lantau takes approx. 1 hour. Lantau is known for Po Lin Monastery and its Bronze statue of Tian Tan Buddha. This statue is 34 meters tall and erected on a hilltop. The best way to get to the top is by Ngong Ping 360, a glass-bottomed cable car that takes you to the base of the steps leading to Big Buddha. One can easily spend an hour around the base of the Buddha, looking at the beautiful mountain scenery, the South China Sea, and some stunning sculptures all around the base. The monastery around the statue has beautiful artworks displayed all over. Take a short stroll along the base of the Big Buddha to reach Wisdom Path, a scenic place lined with 38 tall wooden monuments. All of them are inscribed with verses of the Heart Sutra and are arranged in an '8' pattern symbolizing infinity. The place is very serene and the walk is pleasant. My Tip - One has to climb 268 steps to reach the base of the Big Buddha! But it's entirely worth the effort. Lantau Island can easily be a full-day outing, there is a fort and some beautiful beaches. Cheung Sha is a white sand beach and the longest one in Hong Kong. Day 7 Victoria Harbour Cruise This was our last day in Hong Kong and also happened to be New Year's Eve. We had made bookings for a Victoria Harbour Dinner Buffet on the Harbour Cruise Bauhinia. The buffet spread was lavish, and the cruise and the live music and performances were stupendous, making the entire experience unforgettable. The iconic skyline of Victoria Harbour was lit up to usher in the new year. The cruise parked itself along the Victoria Harbour for stunning views of the fireworks. So, plan a family trip to Hong Kong. It's safe, vibrant, every bit touristy, and worth all your time and money!

  • Temples of Khajuraho, a heady mix of Divinity, Eroticism and Architecture!

    The beautiful and ornate temples of Khajuraho will mesmerize you with their intricate stonework and beguile your senses with the sheer eroticism depicted through its sculptures. But this awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Site is more than just its erotic sculptures. The magnificence and splendour of these temples have to be seen to be believed! They are nothing but poetry written in stone! The complex has 25 temples spread over an area of six kilometres. The entire area is extremely well-maintained and has beautifully manicured gardens. Historically speaking.... Chandela Rulers got these temples made in the 9th century; they wanted to establish Khajuraho as the spiritual and cultural hub of their empire. But the astounding fact is that these beautiful temples have withstood the ravages of time and even today one can feel the skill and grandeur of their art. The temples are built on the Nagara or Northern style of Indian architecture as mentioned in our Shilpa Shastra. This architecture is known for its characteristic features of a Garbhagriha or sanctum sanctorum where the deity is placed, a large hall and a vestibule connecting the main hall to the inside of the temple. In the absence of any written texts or scriptures, many theories about the origin of these temples have surfaced.... Theory 1 It is believed that the temples were made to depict the four cornerstones of the Hindu way of life comprising Dharma, Kaam, Arth and Moksha. Dharma refers to upholding morals and righteousness in life. Kaam refers to procreation, pursuing sensual pleasures, and creating progeny for the continuity of life and family. Arth refers to the procurement of material comforts to provide for one's family. Moksha refers to liberation from the cycle of birth and death. These four facets of life are beautifully depicted on the outer facades of the temples. Theory 2 The temples were made as a means to celebrate and propagate the Shiva-Shakti cult. The largest temple is the Kandariya Mahadev Temple where the presiding deity is Lord Shiva. Close by is the Devi Jagdambi Temple dedicated to Goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva. Theory 3 Another interesting theory has its roots in the belief system based on religious texts like Brihat Samhita that carvings of erotic sculptures, nymphs and mythical creatures on temple doors ushered in good luck. Theory 4 And lastly, back in those days, young unmarried men lived a life of complete celibacy in many such temples. They had no interaction with the female tribe. These erotic sculptures were meant to prepare them for their future life as adult males fit to procreate. There is also a common misconception about Khajuraho.... A belief among common folk is that these temples are all about erotic sculptures and explicit human forms. This is not entirely true. Erotic sculptures comprise only 10% of the total temple complex. The outer walls of Devi Jagdambi Temple and the Kandariya Mahadev Temple on the western side of the temple complex have the most ornate exteriors with explicit figures. Some other temples like Chaturbhuj Temple have no such sculptures. Interestingly, I read somewhere that Mahatma Gandhi had once expressed his desire that the temple walls should be de-faced since he found these erotic sculptures vulgar and misplaced on the temple walls. It was only after the timely intervention of Rabindranath Tagore that this idea was dropped. Many people also believe that the deities have been depicted in sensuous forms and poses. This is not true. The deities are placed inside the sanctum sanctorum of temples while the explicit sensuous poses are depicted using human forms. Celestial beauties and beautiful nymphs called Apsaras are placed away from the deities, adorning only the outer walls of the temples, never the inner walls. These nymphs, with their voluptuous bodies adorned with jewellery, are shown doing daily chores like bathing, washing their hair, applying makeup and indulging in acts of gratification. The significance of these sculptures is to celebrate human life on earth with all its needs and desires. Before I discuss the temple complex in detail, here are a few things you should know before planning a visit to Khajuraho... 1. Keep at least 2 days to see all the temples. If you're going in Summer, then the best time to see the temples is early morning or evening. Since you will have to walk barefoot in the temple on stones, visiting in the afternoon can be very painful for your feet. 2. There is a Light and Sound show every evening on the lawns of the temple complex. The timings of the show change based on the weather and season. You can check the timings beforehand on the official website of Khajuraho Temples at https://www.mptourism.com/destination-khajuraho.php . The show is not spectacular but it makes for a good watch. The sound was okay but the quality of light leaves much to be desired. 3. There are guides available at the entrance to the temple complex. I will discuss this later in this post. 4. The Khajuraho temples are divided into the Western, Eastern and Southern groups of temples. The most popular tourist destination is the Western Group of temples which has the famous Kandariya Mahadev Temple. The Eastern and southern groups of temples are scattered all over the neighbouring Khajuraho village and are free to visit at all times. None of these temples is actively used for worship except for the Matangeshwar Temple in the Western group. 5. A lot of people have apprehensions about taking their kids along to Khajuraho. If your focus is not just the temples but also the surrounding areas of Khajuraho, then you can plan a family vacation to visit the beautiful Panna forest sanctuary that is just an hour's drive away. About 15 km away from Khajuraho is the Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary. But if you wish to see only the temples, then I would say you can avoid bringing them along. There is nothing of any particular interest for children in the Khajuraho temples. There are six main temples in the Western Group Chausath Yogini Temple - This temple is dedicated to Goddess Kali and her 64 attendants. Kandariya Mahadev Temple -  The presiding deity is Lord Shiva, and the inside of the temple has a massive Lingam. The outer facade of the temple has beautiful, voluptuous sura-sundaris or celestial beauties depicted in sensuous poses. Devi Jagdamba Temple -  The temple is dedicated to the Mother Goddess. The inside sanctum has a figure of Lord Vishnu. Chitragupta Temple -  Dedicated to the Sun God, Surya, this temple has an eleven-headed image of Lord Vishnu, symbolizing his ten incarnations. Vishwanath Temple -  The presiding deity is Lord Shiva seated on Nandi, his vehicle the bull. Laxmana Temple - This is also known as the Chaturbhuj Temple. This temple is different from the rest as it has no erotic figures adorning its outer facade. Apart from this, there is Varaha Temple, Parvati Temple, Nandi Temple and Mahadev Temple. As I've mentioned earlier, the Southern and Eastern Group of temples are scattered all over the Khajuraho village and can be visited free of cost. And, now about our visit to the Khajuraho Temple Complex.... Day 1 We flew from Delhi and arrived in Khajuraho in the evening. The airport is about 3 km away from the city centre. We checked into a hotel and headed straight to the temple complex for the Light and Sound show. The show is organised every evening inside the temple lawns by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department. It tells you the history of the Chandela rulers, their love for sculptures and how they made Khajuraho the spiritual and cultural capital of their kingdom. The show was average. The sound and acoustics were okay but the lighting part of the show was dull. Since the show is held when it gets dark, some brighter lighting and better seating arrangements can do wonders for it. Go for the show only if you have ample time on hand. You might not want to make a rush for it. Nothing spectacular about it. Day 2 Early the next morning, like most tourists, we started our journey with the Western Group of temples. We reached the temple complex early, bought tickets and hired a local guide at the entrance. He took us on a 2-hour tour of the temple. He seemed knowledgeable about the architecture of the temples but the contextual facts that we got from him about that architecture, especially the erotic figures on the temple walls were very different from what we were actually seeing all around. He kept asserting throughout his 2-hour commentary that these erotic sculptures were placed on temple walls so that people shunned these 'vices' and led a life of complete abstinence. But the temple architecture seemed to suggest otherwise. The temples, on the contrary, were a celebration of the human form and its many facets. It certainly did not show any shame or preach abstinence. I told him that such figures are found even in the temples of Konark but he was not aware of it. We came back, albeit a bit perplexed about what we had seen and heard. Day 3 We had assigned the last day of our Khajuraho trip to see the Southern and Eastern Group of temples around the village but we decided to go back to the main temple complex in the Western group. We started our day with a visit to the Matangeshwar Temple to offer our prayers. Instead of hiring another local guide, we opted for the audio guide provided at the entrance to the temple complex. Taking the audio guide was the best thing we did on this trip. It was on-point, minus the personal biases of anyone and gave a clear and concise commentary about the architecture and sculptures and led us through the entire layout of the Khajuraho Temple Complex. My honest advice to anyone visiting the temples is to take the pre-recorded audio guide. If you still want to hire a local guide, then pick a guide with a recommendation. I have seen many forums exchanging contact numbers of good, knowledgeable guides. A lot of foreigners who come to visit the temples depend totally on the version and interpretation of these local guides. If someone, like the guide we hired, has such a skewed and narrow opinion of the erotic sculptures on the temple walls, then it can potentially tarnish the image of something so divinely artistic and aesthetic. To celebrate these divine temples, the Khajuraho Dance Festival is organised annually from February 20th to 26th. This week-long festival showcases the many traditional dance forms of India with performances by many leading and renowned dancers from India and overseas. To sum up, I would say that Khajuraho is a rare gem, unparalleled in the intricacy of stonework on the landscape of Indian architecture. It would be unfair to see the erotic sculptures on its temple walls in the context of the sexual symbolism of today. Though it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, I wish that the Khajuraho Temples get more recognition and prominence, somewhat along the lines of the world-famous Taj Mahal.

  • 3 days in Langkawi, the Jewel of Kedah

    The picturesque islands of Langkawi, an archipelago comprising 99 islands in the Strait of Malacca are rightly called the Jewel of Kedah. The islands are surrounded by the stunning aquamarine waters of the Andaman Sea and have some of the most spectacular white sand beaches in all of the region. 5 important things you should know about Langkawi before planning your visit 1. Langkawi is located at a distance of 510 km from Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. Various modes of transport like flight, ferry and train are available from Kuala Lumpur to Langkawi. The cheapest mode is by bus that takes you to Kuala Perlis, a ferry port from where you can go to the city centre, Kuah Town. My Tip - The bus takes about 8 hours to reach Langkawi. You should opt for it only if you have an entire day to spare for the journey. The ideal way to reach Langkawi is to fly to KL and take a connecting flight from there. This is what we had done while travelling from India. Going by ferry is another good option to reach Langkawi from KL. 2. The weather in Langkawi is always warm; May to November is the wet season and December to April is the dry season. The wet season can bring in its wake torrential rains. The end of the dry season, on the other hand, can lead to dried-up waterfalls. My Tip - If you're a water sports enthusiast, then avoid going in the wet season because a lot of water sports are suspended during that time. We went to Langkawi in September, we had booked a day cruise but it got cancelled because of the heavy downpour. Since most of the sightseeing is outdoors, all activities can get compromised. 3. Langkawi is 100% duty-free, and the capital of Kuah Town offers some great shopping opportunities. There are massive shopping malls with great stuff. There are also a lot of good dining options owing to an abundance of seafood available. While in Langkawi, you must try the local Malay cuisine. My Tip - You can easily spend a few hours in the evening at Kuah Town and indulge in some great shopping. Utilize this time to soak in the immense touristy vibe of the island. And what better way to experience the vibe of a place than trying the local cuisine? Eating options are plenty, from high-end restaurants to roadside eateries, fitting every budget and preference of food. 4. Langkawi does not have a public transport system. So, you'll have to depend entirely on private transport for moving around. My Tip - A lot of options are available for moving around. Hiring cars on a daily basis is quite simple and reasonable. Like all tourist places, bikes, motorbikes and cars are easily available for rent. The quality of roads is good and traffic is minimal except around the city centre. 5. There is an abundance of natural parks and beaches in Langkawi. If you have just 3 days at your disposal, then it's best to plan your adventures. As I've mentioned earlier, a lot of your outings will also depend on the weather of the day. My Tip - I have picked out the 1o best attractions that you can easily include in your 3-day itinerary. But some places like the Pulau Payar Marine Park and the Mangrove Safari can take a whole day to explore, so you will have to pick between the two if you have only 3 days with you. 10 Best Things To Do on a 3-Day Itinerary in Langkawi 3 days are adequate to bask in the beauty of this magical island. There are lots of wonderful things to see and a lot of activities to pick from. I have mentioned them below but have not arranged these attractions in any day-wise itinerary because visiting them would greatly depend on the weather and also on how much time you have on hand. If you find yourself in clear weather, then you should immediately go for any water sports that you wish to try. That should be undertaken first thing in the morning since crowds are thinner and the water is clearer. For some beaches like Pantai Cenang, going in the afternoon is better since you can enjoy its vibrant nightlife in the late evening. 1. Eagle Square Eagle Square or Datarang Lang, as it's called in the local language, is perhaps the most photographed sight in all of Langkawi. The massive Eagle statue on the side of the Andaman Sea will surely elicit a 'wow' response from you when you first see it. My Tip - It's located in the Kuah district, if you happen to be staying there, then try to visit this spot during the day and also in the evening when it's all lit up. There is no entry fee. 2. Pantai Cenang About a 20-minute drive away from Eagle Square, on the western shoreline, is the beautiful white sand beach called Pantai Cenang. This is a very favourite tourist hub, the shoreline is always buzzing with water sports enthusiasts, swimmers, parasailors and speedboat riders. In the evening, the shore comes alive with beachfront bars and lounges. My Tip - In my opinion, one should reach here by the late afternoon and then stay till nightfall. The entire coastline is buzzing with tourists. Going during the daytime in summer under the scorching sun is not a good idea. 3. Langkawi SkyCab The Langkawi SkyCab is a must-see attraction for anyone visiting Langkawi. Located in the Oriental Village at the foothills of the Machinchang Mountain Range, it takes about 40 minutes to reach by road from Kuah town. The entire area of SkyCab is full of attractions and one can easily spend 3 to 4 hours here. Your outing will start from the base at Oriental Village. The village has some eating options, shops to buy souvenirs and stunning scenery all around. You can click some pictures here before getting on a cable car to the Sky Bridge. The Cable car starts from the Base Station and takes about 15 minutes to take you to the top of Mount Mat Chinchang. The ride is exhilarating as the cable car goes over verdant scenic beauty. Before getting into the cable car, you can also visit the SkyDome. Remember, your SkyCab ticket includes entry to the SkyDome, a 360-degree projection arena that was built in 2014, to make waiting times for getting on the cable car more fun for tourists. The dome is nothing spectacular but it definitely will provide a respite from the heat outside. Once inside the cable car, you get mesmerizing views all around. You can get out of the cable car at the Middle Station onto the viewing platforms to get stunning 360-degree views of the mountain scenery. My Tip - Go to the Oriental Village only if you want to go ahead with the cable car. In my opinion, there is nothing special about this place except the 3D Art museum. Apart from that, there are some eateries and some shops selling souvenirs. Just treat it as a point to board the cable car. The 3D Art Museum is undoubtedly a good place for families travelling with kids, One can take some great pictures here in front of 3D art objects. If you buy Express Lane tickets, then admission to this 3D Art Langkawi, SkyDome and SkyRex are included. The cable car experience is wonderful. Not-to-miss. The SkyDome is again nothing special but can be a good way to wait before boarding the cable car. Please carry some light woollens for the top of the mountain as it can get very chilly. 4. Sky Bridge The Sky Bridge can be accessed only from the last station of the Langkawi cable car. After getting off the cable car, you can buy extra tickets to go on the bridge. Either you can climb the 370 steps to reach the bridge or take the Sky Glide from the top to the bridge. The price of the tickets will depend on whether you take the steps or the Sky Glide. Langkawi Sky Bridge, a 125-meter-long bridge at an altitude of 660 meters, is an engineering marvel that practically takes you into the mountains. On a clear day, you can see the islands of Thailand from here. The bridge has glass inserts on its bottom offering spectacular views of the valley below. My Tip - There are many options to reach the Sky Bridge. If you are physically fit, then take the 15-10 minute nature trail to reach the Sky Bridge. Otherwise, Sky Glide is available. But, remember, there are always massive queues for this facility since it can accommodate only up to 12 people on one trip. The running of cable cars hugely depends on the weather. Please check the website panoramalangkawi.com for any updates and closure notices before proceeding to the place. 5. Seven Wells Waterfall Seven Wells is called Telaga Tujuh Waterfall. When looking around from the cable car up to the mountain, remember to look out for this waterfall. Seven Wells is a hidden delight in the mountains. It's very close to the Sky Bridge, just keep walking downhill. Some families are living around, and you can ask them for directions. They will help you even if they don't speak proper English. My Tip - Carry an extra set of clothes. The temptation to jump into the waterfalls will be too great to resist. 6. Lagenda Park This is a beautiful open-air park with 17 sculptures of Langkawi legends like princesses, ogres and mythical birds. The park is very close to the Kuah Jetty. My Tip - One gets a beautiful view of Eagle Square from the park. The park is bigger than it appears to look from the outside and as a tourist, you can get to know a lot about the history of Langkawi. One can spend an evening there and wait for the sunset on the beach close by. 7. Crocodile Adventure Land The park is home to over 4000 species of crocodiles. The park is very well maintained and you can do activities like feeding a baby crocodile and holding it in your hands It's rather scary but go for it! The guides in the park are very nice and knowledgeable. But the highlight of the park is not the crocodile species but a crocodile show that is held in the park. My Tip - The crocodile show is a must-see. The dare-devil stunts that these trainers perform with the crocodiles are sure to get your heart into your mouth! Please check the timings before going to the park. 8. Skytrex Adventure If you're an adventure enthusiast, then you must visit Skytrex Adventure. There are fun activities like swinging on ropes, gliding, sliding and dangling done under expert supervision. It's about 40 to 45 minutes drive from Kuah. The place is absolute fun with dingy bridges suspended over lush green forest. My Tip - The adventure park is a good pastime especially if you're travelling with kids. 9. Tanjung Rhu On the north side of the Langkawi island, is the beautiful white sand beach Tanjung Rhu. It is considered to be one of the best beaches in Langkawi with clean water and restaurants with scenic views around. Boat tours to the mangroves are also available here. My Tip - This beach is a must on your 3-day itinerary. Just 3 km away from Tanjung Rhu is the Mangrove Safari. If you have time, then you must add it to your day's outing. A boat takes you into the mangrove swamps and you can see some amazing migratory birds. There are a multitude of options available to see these mangroves, from tours ranging from 3 to 6 hours. 10. Pulau Payar Marine Park An outing to this beautiful marine park should be done on a sunny day if you wish to do snorkelling or diving. The park can be reached by catamaran or a speedboat that takes about 45 minutes to reach from the Kuah Jetty. We had to miss out on this outing since it rained incessantly during the day on which we had planned this outing. My Tip - There are some restrictions imposed on tourists about fishing or even venturing into the water. If you have more time on hand, then Conducted tours of the park are also available. Please check the official Langkawi tourism website for recent updates and information. Eagle Square, Lagenda Park, SkyCab, Sky Bridge and Crocodile Adventure Land are not-to-miss attractions. Add to this a mangrove boat tour and your trip to Langkawi is complete because these are attractions unique only to Langkawi. If you still have time left and if the weather permits, then there are plenty of beaches to choose from, the nicest one being Tanjung Rhu.

  • Art with Eroticism at the Moulin Rouge, Paris

    If you’re a traveller at heart then like all fellow travellers you would surely have a checklist of all the attractions in the world that you aspire to visit in your lifetime. My travel list had Paris on the top and rightly so, as a trip to the city can leave you yearning for more. Paris is a city one can never tire of. The allure of Paris is hard to miss, the colourful graffiti in metro stations, chic shopping arcades, the intriguing cuisine that gradually grows on you, the vibrant arcades around the Champs-Elysees, the sea of tourists that throng the city’s streets, the beautifully adorned facades on very old buildings that complement the new modern ones, old historical castles, French wine, gorgeous French women and, of course, Moulin Rouge, the famous cabaret in Paris. Cabaret shows come with baggage, a certain kind of disdain for the art that is accompanied by hordes of bosom-revealing women dancing and prancing around for the pleasure of the guests. But Moulin Rouge is much more than that. It's art in its lucid form with a dash of titillation and loads of mass appeal. Any apprehension that I initially had about going for the show was put to rest the moment I saw a long serpentine queue in front of the big red windmill at the famous Boulevard de Clichy. This famous landmark synonymous with Moulin Rouge beckons visitors from around the world, you can spot it from a distance. The boulevard can be easily identified by the huge windmill on the top. A few tips that I picked along the way.... - Guests, both men and women are expected to arrive dressed in elegant attire, as they choose to call it, for the show. - Jeans are okay but no shorts or flip-flops for anyone. -I'd like to put in a word for people travelling with families here. Although the Moulin Rouge website puts the minimum age for visiting as 12+, I strongly feel that the entire area around the cabaret is not kid-friendly, in the sense that though the area is absolutely safe it will be right to call it sleazy. - The queue in front of the entrance to Moulin Rouge is long and entry into the main hall can take its fair share of time. So, arriving early to settle down well before the show begins is a good idea. Late entries are not allowed. Once inside, your attention will easily be drawn to the décor that has an old-world charm about it. It must have been obviously redone from its old 1920s days, it looks entirely revamped to accommodate the lighting and all the trappings of this new-age technology that comes with it. The hall is huge and my eyes inadvertently try to seek out the stage. I am thrilled to see that our seats are well located in the second but front row, so we won’t have to crane our necks over fellow audiences to see the stage. Seating is not theatre-like, it is around tables laid out for guests who wish to opt for dinner or champagne alongside the show the cost for which is included in the ticket. As far as we are concerned, dinner can be a distraction and can take away the focus from the show. We restrict ourselves to a glass of champagne that is quickly served the moment we settle into our seats. Photography is strictly prohibited during the show. And finally, the show begins.... Dancers in elaborate costumes with colourful plumes and intriguing head gear start pouring onto the stage. The accompanying music and the dancers grooving to the famous French Can-Can dance are exhilarating. The dance is very high on energy and pleasantly seductive as the lively dancers’ skirts swirl across the stage in sweeping movements that leave the audience in rapture. Their steps are synchronized to the very last detail and make quite an impact. The riot of colour, lights, and music on stage with almost four dozen beautiful topless women is sure to make your jaw drop! The performance follows a plot throughout the show which can be understood from the tone and context as there is no narrator introducing the show to the audience. It can be a good idea to just sit back and soak in the exuberance and immense talent of the dancers. These days a lot of information is available on the net, but in 2008 when we visited, information was available only in pamphlets available at the venue itself. In the case of Moulin Rouge, our only source of reference was the movie 'Moulin Rouge' starring Nicole Kidman. There is a main dance sequence, with interludes of the speciality shows to add to the zest of the evening. There is a circus show with a clown and the usual buffoonery followed by another short comical interlude. There is an acrobat on roller skates where the performer is extremely agile and graceful. The one performance that really stood out for me both in terms of grace and novelty was the ‘Water Tank Spectacle’, as I choose to call it here. Out of nowhere, a huge water tank appeared from the middle of the stage. As if this was not enough to perplex the audience, a gigantic snake boa constrictor appeared in it. I was waiting with bated breath as to what was going to come next. A pretty dancer wearing nothing more than a thong jumped into it. The brazen boldness of her jump let out a collective sigh from the audience. I am sure the ones sitting right in front would have winced in their seats. Catching the boa in her hands, the girl started playing with the huge snake, sliding it over her body in a rhythmic motion, whirling around with it in the water and making sensuous movements completely in sync with the music being played in the background. The sheer prowess she displayed in the water is befitting of only one word ‘Spectacular’. The one thing that stood out for me in this gala evening of dance and music was the extremely talented troupe of performers and the colourful palette of costumes that brought the stage to life. A quick pic before the show begins... A visit to the Moulin Rouge can be a journey into erstwhile Paris's turbulent yet colourful past and vindicate its position as the world’s most romantic destination.

  • 2 days in the Plitvice National Park, Croatia's own Garden of Eden!

    The Plitvice National Park Croatia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site spread over an area of 295 sq km. The park is picture perfect, its magnificent beauty comparable perhaps only to the Garden of Eden itself. There are waterfalls, lakes, rapids and more waterfalls gushing and foaming their way into these lakes and spilling out of them. I had read somewhere before our visit that there are wild animals like wolves and bears in the forest around the national park but they've never been sighted because of such a heavy influx of tourists to the area. That's good to know! Let me start with some basic info about the National Park - Plitvice National Park has a total of 16 lakes, 12 upper and 4 lower. These lakes cascade into waterfalls of varying sizes and intensity, there are more than 90 waterfalls in the park. The park is divided into parts, Upper Lakes and Lower Lakes. These two parts are separated from each other by the 3 km-long Lake Kozjak. - In the vicinity of the park are many beautiful small villages with accommodation facilities for tourists. - The park has two main entrances - Entrance 1 will take you to the lower lakes. Entrance 2 will take you to the upper lakes. There is a shuttle bus and a shuttle boat that takes you from the upper lakes to the lower lakes and vice versa. - Ticket prices include all these rides. Please retain them till the end of your trip, since they are checked while taking the shuttle boat ride on Lake Kozjak. The beautiful village of Mukinje The weatherman had predicted heavy rain the following day, so we decided to set off for the parks the same day post-lunch. First look at the winding wooden paths....lots more to come! Our two-day exploration of the park On Day 1, we started our trip around noon. Our landlady felt that by noon, entry from Entrance 1 would get very crowded. So, we should start from Entrance 2, Upper Lakes. After some inquiry from the Information office, we opted for Trail H and set forth. The trail is 8.9 km long and is moderately tough. It takes around 5 to 6 hours to walk on this trail. There are other trails also each one laid out on a different route and with varying degrees of difficult terrain. We are greeted with small waterfalls emerging from everywhere, from behind the bushes and rocks. A sturdy wooden path takes us over a wide lake which is home to a large variety of fish. The path winds further into the park and over a very fast-gushing waterfall. We keep walking on the designated trail, soaking in the beauty of this wonder of nature. Every possible variety of waterfall is visible here, small, medium, large, noisy, and silent ones, high and low, flowing into the lake and from the lake. The walking trail leads us to the ferry point. The ferry takes us to the other side of the park in continuation of the journey. Ferry and train tickets are included in the entrance ticket to the park. The ferry drops us off at the lower lakes. The lower lakes are placid, and the scenery is still bewitching but the waterfalls look different. Towards the end of the trail is the signage for the ‘Big waterfall’. This is called 'Veliki Slap' and is 78 meters high. If you have the energy to walk an extra couple of kilometres then don’t miss this one. If you do miss it then the only consolation is that the huge cascading waters of the fall are visible in all their glory from the main trail too. On Day 2, we started a bit early and decided to venture out into the park from Entrance 1 at the lower lakes. We had seen both the upper and lower lakes on Day 1 itself, so this day we just spent lazying around and gaping at the beauty of this nature's wonder. This time we took a different trail. It starts from the main entrance leading up to the waterfront. Equally beautiful with a different view of the waterfalls. My Tips about a visit to Plitvice National Park - - The entire park is worth seeing. There are a lot of forums that advocate taking one entrance over another, I think taking Entrance 1 or 2 should be based on where you are staying. We stayed in an apartment in Mukinje, a quaint village very close to the park. Entrance 2 was closest to our place. So, we started with the upper lakes. - Upper lakes are more exciting for families with teenagers and young children. There are small wooden footbridges that go over cascading waters that create a roaring sound as they fall into deep rapids and waterfalls. Lower lakes, on the other hand, are calmer. And, of course, the Big Waterfall is located here. - One should try to understand the layout of the park before starting on the trip, depending on the amount of time you have and the level of difficulty of each trail. Trails vary from 3 hours to 6 or more hours of walking time. Pick one trail and stick to it. Chances of you getting lost are thin as there are exiting routes, if you follow them, you will reach one of the exits. - A visit to the park involves a lot of walking. We walked close to 25,000 steps on Day 1. Wear very comfortable shoes and carry some light snacks and water for your outing. - If you are travelling with small kids, then remember, there are no protective rails on the footbridges. I feel that even taking prams over these tricky wooden ledges might be difficult. So, plan accordingly. - If you plan a day trip only, take the bus directly to the Plitvice National Park entrance. Bus connections in Croatia are excellent, there are many buses plying between Zagreb and Plitvice at frequent intervals. With just a day at hand, you will have to rush through the park. It's best to have pre-purchased online tickets to save time and avoid queues. Ideally, one should plan to stay in one of the villages nearby and see the entire park over two days. We've walked all this way uphill from the lower waterfalls to the top of the park to get this mesmerizing picture! Worth every step I must say.....

  • Snow, desert, lakes, rivers, 7 magical days in Ladakh, the highest plateau in India

    Ladakh with its capital at Leh can easily be called any traveller's dream destination. About Ladakh In a short trip of 7 to 8 days, one can see beautiful vistas of snow-capped mountains, emerald blue lakes, lusty rivers, gravity-defying mountainous roads, cold sand deserts, old palaces and Buddhist monasteries and so many other wonders of nature. Hard to believe? But it's true! The Union Territory of Ladakh lies at an elevation of 6000 m. The quickest way to reach Ladakh is to fly directly to Leh's capital city. The problem with flying directly to such a high altitude is that it can cause severe altitude sickness with symptoms like dizziness and headaches. If you're travelling by road, then your body gets time to acclimatize gradually which in this case happens suddenly. If you've hired a tour operator, they will leave your day of arrival in Leh free to give your body a chance to acclimate to the altitude. This is an absolute must before you embark on your Ladakh adventure. A few more things to keep in mind before travelling to Leh are - One, an Inner Line permit or ILP is required to visit some places in Ladakh. Restricted Area Permit or RAP is required for other places close to Siachen or LOC. We visited Ladkah in 2014, and none of these permits were needed at that time. Your tour operator should ensure all permits are in place before the journey. Two , Ladakh is a desert, it can be very hot during the day when the sun is shining and it can get quite cold at night. So, while travelling outdoors, always wear clothes in layers and carry a jacket. Three, altitude sickness is real. It can cause severe dizziness and discomfort in some people. Please ensure that you carry medicines that you think might be needed to combat this problem. Four, there can be some last-minute delays and cancellations in flights to Leh because of weather conditions in Leh. If you're travelling with kids and seniors in your family, then be prepared for some hardships. Carry drinking water and snacks for such eventualities. In peak season, the crowds are really heavy and delays could occur because of that. We visited Leh in June 2014, the Indian Government had instructed the airlines to reduce their passenger load owing to safety concerns about landing at the high altitude in Leh. We had to endure a lot of difficulties and delays flying in and out of Leh. However, once you've landed the stunning landscape of Leh will mesmerize your senses.... Day 1 Check-in at the hotel and a complete day of rest and acclimatisation. Day 2 Thikse Gompa After a full day of rest on arrival, we ventured out into the beautiful landscape to visit Thikse Gompa or Monastery on Day 2. The monastery is about 19 km from Leh and the route to the monastery was through a beautiful road with views of snow-clad peaks. Thikse Monastery is a massive structure built atop a hill with stunning views of the Indus Valley. On first look, the monastery gives a very familiar feel owing to its resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa whose pictures one might have seen on many travel sites. The main attraction of the monastery is Maitreya Buddha , a 15m high copper and clay statue of Lord Buddha that reaches up to two storeys. There is a long winding staircase that runs through the monastery. An arcade with a giant rolling drum fixed to its ceiling is the first attraction. Apart from this, there are temples, an assembly hall, smaller drum rolls with colourful Buddhist inscriptions, a beautiful courtyard with multicoloured arches, and the monastery rooftop with stunning views of the valley all around. The place oozes a sense of calm and one can easily spend about two to three hours basking in the serene surroundings of the monastery. The giant drum roll and colourful facades and amazing views from the monastery rooftop! Shanti Stupa After spending about two hours in the monastery, we headed to 'Shanti Stupa'. It's a short ride from the monastery amidst beautiful scenic mountains that are so integral to any road trip in Leh. The Stupa is a pristine white dome structure built on a mountain facing the Leh Palace by Japanese Buddhists in 1991 to promote world peace. My Tip - The thing to remember is that one has to climb 500 steps to reach the entrance to the Stupa. So wear comfortable shoes for the climb. The views of the valley from the top are spectacular and worth the climb! There is also a nice cafe for refreshments. Old Town From Shanti Stupa, we travelled to the Old Town in Leh to the 17th-century Leh Palace. This was the residence of the royal family of Ladakh. The palace is in a dilapidated condition but the large wooden balconies and impressive facades tell tales of the glory of the past. Day 3 Hall of Fame After breakfast, we headed to the 'Hall of Fame', the war Museum in Leh constructed by the Indian Army. It's dedicated to the soldiers who fought in the Indo-Pak wars. The museum showcases the way soldiers live in the Siachen glacier, what they eat, the tents where they live, the weapons they use and many other interesting artefacts. There is an entire wall displaying photos of the Kargil War and a documentary on 'Operation Vijay' in the projection room. My Tip - If you're travelling with kids, this will surely be a fun outing for them. There is also a small adventure park for kids. My boys were thrilled to see army tanks on display and the many adventure activities in the park. Most tour operators also give you a tour of the local market in Leh, take you to some shopping areas and show you some local attractions, especially places where some films have been shot. Again, if you're travelling with kids, they would be thrilled to see such 'hotspots'. A backdrop of the Hindi film '3 Idiots' Magnetic Hill After an adventure-packed morning, we went to another thrilling activity of the day, 'Magnetic Hill'. This site is at a distance of 30 km from Leh. The mountain is known to defy gravity since your car, with its engine, switched off, will appear to be going uphill instead of downhill. This strange phenomenon was met with squeals of delight from all of us. Zanskar River The thrill continued on Day 3 with our journey to the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus rivers, called Sangam, in Nimmu Valley, 35 km away from Leh on the road towards Kargil. The spectacular merging of these two mighty rivers is a sight to behold with two distinct streams of colour forming one before flowing away into the mountains. View from the top! Day 4 Pangong Lake Early morning, we set out for Pangong Lake which is about 160 km away. Please remember that this trip requires you to carry an ILP. The road trip takes about 6 - 7 hours, over the beautiful Chang-La, which is counted among some of the highest passes in the world. The roads are good and the route to reach Pangong is as beautiful as the destination. This was a full-day outing and definitely a high point of our Ladakh trip. En route to Pangong......first glimpse of the lake! The mesmerizing Pangong Lake! My Tip - Plan to stay longer, the lake appears to change colours as the day progresses and offers some amazing photo opportunities. We came back in the evening, exhausted but rejuvenated from this outing. Day 5 Nubra Valley and Khardung-La Pass The trip to Nubra Valley is an overnight excursion via the Khardung-La pass, which is the highest motorable road in the world at a staggering height of 18832 ft above sea level. Awe-inspiring .....desert, mountains, rivers, sand, vegetation, even snow and a glorious sunset in the Nubra Valley! The 5-hour journey goes through some beautiful topography and picturesque mountain scenery. There is a stop at Khardung-La for photos and some light refreshments. My Tip - The condition of the road initially is quite good but from South Pullu to Khardung Peak, the road becomes bumpy and bad. Please carry your medicines if you have a medical condition that could get worse by such a hectic road journey. Things to note are that Nubra is a valley, so it's less cold than Leh. Avoid carrying very heavy woollens. Dressing in layers is your best bet as it can get cold at night. Overnight staying facilities are tented, so carrying toilet paper and some other toiletries is a must. Although, tented accommodation has very good nets to keep mosquitoes and insects at bay, but you should carry some mosquito repellant. Stunning vistas at the Nubra Valley... Nubra is unbelievably stunning. There is a cold desert, sand, some scanty vegetation, a river flowing by, and snow-covered peaks all together in one place. We waited for the sunset behind the mountains and the effect was magical. The next day, Day Six of our journey, we started back for Leh. By late noon, we were back in our hotel after this exhilarating outing. We decided to spend the last evening of our trip exploring the local market which is replete with shops of souvenirs and local handicrafts. Our trip to Ladakh came to an end but the memories of this enchanting land live on in our minds!

  • Sun, sand, snorkelling, sea-walk and scuba....in the amazing Andaman!

    Andaman or 'Kaala Paani' as its popularly known in India evoked thoughts of a dark, grim island lying amid the Indian Ocean where Indian freedom fighters were sent to their doom in the early 1900s. Now, a visit to the island throws open a lush green land enjoying the bounties of thick deciduous and evergreen forests, rich marine life and a host of adventurous water sports. Some basic facts about planning a visit to Andaman - There are over 800 islands in Andaman and Nicobar, out of which 31 are inhabited. - Tourists confine themselves mainly to Port Blair, the capital of Andaman, Havelock Island (now called Swaraaj Dweep), Neil Island (now called Shahid Dweep), Ross Island (now called Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island), North Bay Island, Jolly Buoy, Parrot Island and some more. - These islands offer attractions like scenic landscapes, amazing beaches, a large variety of marine life, water sports like snorkelling, scuba diving, jet skiing, sea walks, and places of historical interest. - Basically, a vacation to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands can be a fun-filled enriching experience for the whole family. Most people wonder about Nicobar and whether they can visit that too. Let me inform you that Nicobar is inhabited by some preserved tribes and is out of bounds for tourists. Our 8-day itinerary in Andaman Day One - Cellular Jail, Port Blair We started our vacation from Port Blair, which is the point where all tourists land in Andaman. Port Blair is a small town, there are some specific attractions here that are not to miss. By the time we reached Port Blair and checked into a hotel, it was noon. That evening we decided to visit the Cellular Jail, the place that has given Andaman the infamous name of Kaala Paani. The infamous Cellular Jail and the watch tower There are two must-watch attractions in the jail, One, the premises of the jail and Two, the Light and Sound show in the evening after the jail closes. There are tour guides available, I would suggest going with one. The guide we hired showed us around the jail with interesting anecdotes and historical incidents from British rule in India. Once the tour is over, one has to wait for the show to begin. The show is in English and Hindi, kindly check the timings for the language of your choice. My Tip - The show is spectacular. It depicts the torture that was inflicted upon Indian freedom fighters by the British and the way the prisoners were kept in the jail under sub-human conditions. The audio-visuals and commentary are excellent. The prison walls and trees all around are used as communicating mediums in the show! Our mood had turned quite sombre after watching this show, to brighten up our spirits, we decided to try some local seafood. We went to a restaurant called 'Seafood Delights' in Phoenix Bay. It's one of the best restaurants in the city, the prices, though, are on the higher side. We ordered garlic butter prawns and a dish made of King Mackeral, both were delicious and worth the price. If you're planning to stay in Port Blair for the next day, then you can visit Ross Island and North Bay Island or Corbyn's Cove. In case, you're leaving town, then these attractions can be covered on the return journey. North Bay Island is known for a variety of water sports in Port Blair. We were staying in Port Blair for two nights, so on Day Two, we decided to go to Corbyn's Cove. Day Two - First half - Corbyn's Cove The cove is a beautiful part of the beach with very calm waters. You can hire an autorickshaw to go there. It will take about 20 minutes from the main city. The scenic route to the cove from the city centre is spectacular with beautiful views of the Andaman Sea on the side. The main attractions of the place are jet skiing, sea karting and speed boating. Sea kart is available only in this cove in the whole of Andaman because very calm water is needed to ride it. We could not do it because it was slightly windy that day. So, we opted for speed boating. The boat takes you to Snake Island, a small island off the cove with beautiful views. There are some eateries and souvenir shops along the beach. My Tip - One can spend a whole day exploring the sea and trying out different water sports. Day Two - Second half - Chidiya Tapu In the evening, we went to see Mundapahad Beach in Chidiya Tapu. As the name suggests, the island is home to a lot of migratory birds, so you can do some bird-watching, the island is a biological park with a mini zoo that can be a fun outing with families for kids. The island is about 30 kilometres from Port Blair and the approach road is very scenic. It's famous for its beautiful sunsets, ideally, one should plan the outing in the evening and wait for the sunset. The beach has a lot of deposits of black rocks and mangroves lending it a very scenic and mysterious look. Two things that you should remember if you're visiting this island are, One, do not enter the water as it has saltwater crocodiles. Stepping in the water is absolutely forbidden. Two, one has to wait for the sunset out in the open near the sea, there is no shade or shack available. There are a lot of mosquitoes here, carry a mosquito repellant and sunscreen to protect yourself from the scorching sun. On the way to Chidiya Tapu is the beautiful Symphony Samudra Beachside Jungle Resort and Spa. After having waited for almost two hours for the sunset in the scorching heat, we decided to spend the rest of the evening in this resort. There is a nice lounge aptly called 'Sunset Lounge' and a restaurant to unwind and see the last of the sunset. Mesmerizing sunset on the horizon...view from Sunset Lounge Day Three - Havelock Island (now Swaraj Dweep) We take a ferry from Haddo Jetty. The ferry takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to arrive at Havelock. Please reach the jetty point at least 45 minutes before departure. Havelock is easily the high point of visiting Andaman. It's a small island, with verdant greens all over, beautiful beaches, stunning scenery, nice eateries and exciting water sports. We were going to spend three nights on this island at the beautiful Sea Shell Resort. Crowned welcome at the Sea Shell Resort! Havelock is known for five major beaches, Radhanagar Beach, Kaala Patthar Beach, Govind Nagar Beach, Elephant Beach Vijaynagar Beach Each of these beaches is distinctly different from the others, so if you have time, try to visit all five of them. Our resort was situated on the Govindnagar beach, so that is where we spent the afternoon. The beach is rocky, one has to be careful while walking in the water. It's known for Nemo Reef, which is a favourite spot for scuba divers. One can see a lot of scuba divers gearing up for their dive from this beach in the mornings. Walking on the rocks and corals and seeing micro-marine life was fun. We set out for Radhanagar beach in the evening. According to Time Magazine, this beach holds the ranking of the seventh best beach in the world. It has also been awarded the title of a Blue Flag-certified beach. And rightfully so. The waters are a placid blue, the 2-kilometre long coastline extends into the horizon offering beautiful sunset views, there are thick green mountainous forests all around and the changing facilities on the beach are good. Radhanagar Beach....white sands with nature's intricate patterns, an elderly man walking in the water holding his stick and another glorious sunset! We were taken by complete surprise to see so many people splashing around in the water since it is quite shallow far into the sea. After spending a good 3 hours on the beach and watching the stunning sunset, we came back to the resort to spend the evening in the Bo no va Cafe inside the Sea Shell Resort. This is considered to be one of the best places to eat in Havelock. Day 4 - Havelock to Elephant Beach In the morning, we headed to Elephant Beach. At some point in time, a lot of elephants used to roam around on this beach, hence the name. Elephant Beach is the hub of water sports in Havelock. But now no elephants can be seen, only hordes of tourists trying all sorts of water activities. One has to take a small boat from Havelock to reach Elephant Beach which takes about 15 to 20 minutes. Tickets are issued at the Jetty point for the boat and the activity, though tickets for the water sport are available at the beach too. We decided to start with deep-sea snorkelling. There are trained divers who equip you with the snorkelling gear and the life jacket, then they take you out into the sea holding your hands while you float on the surface of the water. There are lifeguards stationed at the beach and the water is completely safe from any dangerous marine creatures and saltwater crocodiles. Deep sea snorkelling ....An unbelievable riot of colour under the sea This was a delightful experience, the sunny day ensured that we saw some colourful marine life and corals. Elephant Beach offers a Sea Walk in Havelock. If you're not too scared of water and you do not have any pressing health conditions like hypertension, Asthma, Sinusitis, or diabetes then this is a must-experience attraction. The sea walk is done on the sea bed about 7 to 10 meters deep. The amazing Sea Walk! You are given a headgear resembling a big helmet that covers your head and shoulders. The underlying purpose of this helmet is to provide oxygen so that you can continue breathing normally inside the helmet once underwater. The helmet is quite heavy and weighs about 35 kg so it's put on your head only once you're about to touch the water's surface. The experience is unique and fairly simple. Once underwater, one gets to spend about 20 to 25 minutes watching marine life very closely. What enhances the experience is the live photos and videos of you that are taken throughout. If you have time, then one can add jet skiing also the mix. My Tip - Please take note of two things when going to Elephant Beach, One , carry an Android phone if possible. All photos and videos can be taken down immediately if you have an Android phone on you. We were carrying only iPhones, so had to wait till 10:00 pm that night to get all our photos and videos from the concerned people on WhatsApp. Two , if you're travelling with small kids, carry something for them to eat there. The shacks at the beach offer some basic snacky stuff and some drinks only. Day 5 - In and around Havelock We planned to hire a Scooty to gallivant around the island and see what remained in our itinerary. Scootys are easily available for a reasonable price in Havelock. First on the list was Kaala Patthar Beach. We spent some time here and took some pictures amidst this stunning backdrop. Vijaynagar beach is also quite close by and falls on the same route back into the city. In the evening, we savoured a delicious lobster at a very happening place in Havelock called 'Something Different'. The place is rustic, right next to the sea and the food is delicious. They can get you picked up from your hotel or resort and will even get you dropped off at the end of your meal, click a picture and hand it over to you before you leave. So, that's really something different! With this, we finished seeing all five beaches, and now what remained to be seen was one sunrise over the sea. We did this on the last day of our travel at the Kaala Patthar beach at 4:30 a.m. We scooted to the beach, the cool fresh morning air is something we really miss in big cities. The sunrise was mesmerizing, no photograph can do justice to that magical moment when the sun struggles to get up and start its day's job..... Day 6 - Havelock to Neil Island (now called Shahid Dweep) Our next stop was Neil Island, via a one-hour ferry from Havelock. Try to reach the jetty point early, it's chaotic and very crowded. Neil Island is now called Shadid Dweep, it's a small island, laid back and much smaller than Havelock but as scenic. We checked into this beautiful seaside resort called the Sea Shell Samsara. This exotic resort is located on Laxmanpur Beach No.1. Stunning twig-shaped shells are littered all over the beach This is a white sand beach laden with shells that have been cut to precision by the sea over millennia. The fact that all shells have the same twig-like structure just shows the astounding precision with which nature operates. Needless to say, I filled my pockets with these beauties for bringing back home. We had dinner at Malacca, the multi-cuisine restaurant at Sea Shell Samsara. The dinner was good, although I always prefer to step out of the resort and look for more authentic food options. But in Neil, eating-out options are limited, there is another restaurant called Dugong in Sea Shell Neil, a sister resort of Sea Shell Samsara, which is also considered to be good. Day 7 - Scuba Diving at Neil Island The last day at Neil, the big day that we had been waiting for throughout the trip, was here. We had planned a scuba dive with 'DIVE India' for this day. 'DIVE India' is considered to be the best in the market, in terms of safety and expertise. As a first-time diver, these are the two things we were looking for the most. Also, there are fewer mangroves in Neil, so the waters are much clearer offering better visibility of marine life. And the best part is that the crowds are missing here. Most people opt to dive in Havelock, so this spares Neil the tourist rush. Early morning we headed to the jetty area where the 'DIVE India' Neil Dancing Dugong Resort is located. The resort has a reception area, independent cottages, a cafeteria and basic changing facilities before your venture into the sea. We slipped into our wetsuits and followed the instructors into the shallow water for our training session. I will talk about our scuba experience in a separate blog...keep reading! https://www.journeys2memories.com/post/scuba-diving-at-neil-island-in-the-andamans Exhilarated by our scuba dive at Neil, we took the afternoon to relax. In the evening, we went to see Laxmanpur Beach No. 2. The beach has a stunning natural formation of rocks called the 'Howrah Bridge'. One can walk up to the bridge only when the tide is low, we checked the timings of low tide on the internet before starting for the bridge. The approach to the beach is interesting, there are steps followed by a small area full of shops and souvenirs and then comes the beach. There are many dead corals throbbing with marine life around the bridge. One can spend about 2 hours wandering around till sunset. We decided to spend our last evening at Neil to celebrate our scuba experience at Dugong, at Sea Shell Neil. There is live music here to unwind and enjoy. My Tip - Kindly note that internet connectivity in both Havelock and Neil Island, especially in Neil, is very poor. This can pose a problem if you're depending on last-moment online tickets and confirmations. We had hard copies of all our documents, this certainly made our life easy! Day 8 - Neil Island to Port Blair Early the next morning, we head back to Port Blair by ferry. As I mentioned earlier, a visit to Ross Island was still left on our itinerary. So, on the last day of our Andaman trip, we took a ferry to Ross Island from Marina Park Sports Complex. Ross Island was the old capital of Andaman, now it serves as a base for the Indian Navy. It's now called Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island or NSCB. A few things to remember when going to Ross are, One, the boat leaves the jetty when there are a minimum of 10 people travelling to Ross, Two, one has to make online bookings for the light and sound show at the Ross Island, Three, the island closes at 4:00 pm, so you can go in the evening only if you have tickets for the show. Once the show is over, the boat that took you is the one that will bring you back. Going to Ross brought back the sad memories of our freedom struggle that we had experienced on Day one in Cellular Jail. Ross bore the brunt of this struggle the most. My Tip - The light and sound show is spectacular, beautifully conceptualized with amazing 3D graphics depicting the tumultuous history of the island. The script and narration are by Gulzar, so one can imagine the high poetic content of the narrative. The show tells the history of the island, its inception by the British to make a penal colony as a means of punishment for the freedom fighters of the revolt of 1857, and its ultimate destruction by a massive earthquake in 1941. The show highlights the stark contrast between the lifestyles of British officers who were living on the island in their mansions equipped with facilities like swimming pools and tennis courts as against the life of Indian freedom fighters who were made to survive in sub-human conditions on this island of horror. But apart from this show, Ross Island has nothing more to offer. What it needs is a facelift. The island suffers from poor infrastructure, there is no provision to address any contingencies considering that the island is in the middle of nowhere, and the apathy of local government agencies is written all over the place. Since the island closes at 4:00 pm and the show starts at 5:30, even the toilets were non-operational. No kiosks were offering any refreshments or even water. It was disappointing to see the historical ruins of British colonial power that need to be better preserved for future generations to see are all lying in shambles. Our last sunset at Ross Island! Andaman is beautiful, it is blessed by all the bounties of nature, forests, oceans, marine life, sun, beaches and more. My only hope is that the tolls and travails of excessive tourism do not end up ruining the fragile ecosystem of this enchanting island.

  • 10 must-do things in Varanasi, the city of Shiva

    Going to Varanasi, also known as Benaras or Kashi is every pilgrim's dream. As per popular Hindu belief, taking a dip in the holy Ganges on the banks of Kashi can absolve the person of all his or her past life sins. And leaving one's mortal body in Kashi is a sure-shot route to salvation. But Varanasi offers more than just salvation.... The city is a pulsating reminder of the ethos of Hinduism, that religion is a celebration, it's an integral part of life, not just for the living but also for the dead. Little wonder then that Manikarnika Ghat on the banks of the Ganges is always burning with funeral pyres while alongside, the banks on the opposite side of the river are buzzing with people as they go about their daily routines, washing laundry, bathing and offering holy water to the Sun God. The inevitable cycle of life and death is on full display at these ghats at all times. We reached Varanasi in the evening. The roads leading to the ghats are extremely crowded in the evening as tourists throng them to see the Ganga Arti. We decided to start our sightseeing the next morning with a visit to the Assi Ghat. There are 10 things that you must see and experience in Varanasi 1. 'Subah-e-Banaras' at Assi Ghat This is the first must-do thing on our itinerary. Assi ghat is known for 'Subah-e-Banaras', a cultural extravaganza that is held at 5:00 a.m. every morning. The setting is simple yet aesthetic, people can sit on chairs or the steps around the ghat. In the background of a very enthusiastic rendition of Vedic hymns by young children of the nearby Gurukul, young men clad in red dhotis, holding brass oil lamps in their hands make powerful, graceful movements in sync with the recital to worship the Ganges. My Tip - Stay a little longer around the place. Once the Arti is done, the scene shifts to a small stage on the side of the ghat for some classical recital. The soulful voice of the singer welcoming the morning Sun is nothing short of magical. Magical mornings with Subah-e-Banaras! 2. Kashi Vishwanath Temple From Assi Ghat, we hire a boat to reach the main attraction of Varanasi, the famed Kashi Vishwanath Temple. This is the highlight of the trip to Varanasi. The temple has a 'Jyotirlinga', a symbolic representation of Lord Shiva in his 'Vishwanath Roop', meaning Ruler of the world. The temple complex can be approached from the river and the city side. As we approach the temple, the huge impressive facade of the temple becomes visible. Very close to the temple complex is the Manikarnika Ghat . There is so much activity around the ghat in the morning, some fresh pyres are spewing thick smoke into the air, and the sight makes me unwittingly cringe. Our boatman senses my discomfort and has an interesting folklore to share. He tells us that it is believed that the continual funeral pyres at the ghat are also a reminder of the continuity of life, the locals believe that if on any given day no funeral pyre is lit at the ghat, then all life on earth will end. Talking of folklore, there is an abundance of them in this most ancient city of the world. Every autorickshaw driver, every chai wallah (tea vendor) and every other local has one to share. We walk through the massive temple complex, along the long corridor to the Sanctum Sanctorum. There are beautifully adorned statues along the way. Beautiful statue of Bharat Mata in the corridor....first look at the temple that houses the Jyotirling... beautiful graffiti on the wall behind the temple complex! My Tip - Reach early before the crowds thicken. Pilgrims visiting the temple are not allowed to carry phones, wallets, belts, shoes or any other item made of leather. There are safe deposit lockers right outside the temple. You can also buy ' Prasad ' from a counter inside the temple complex. The golden spire of the main temple is visible from the outside The main temple houses a black stone Jyotirlinga, placed imposingly on a silver pedestal, with some small jyotirlingas all around. We join the queue leading to the Jyotirlinga, with folded hands and fervorous chanting of 'Om Namah Shivay' and 'Om Vishwanath', we look at the Jyotirlinga of the Ruler of the World in awe as we go by. There are colonnades all around the main temple housing other deities too. On less crowded days, one needs about an hour to see the temple and do the darshan. 3. Ram Bhandar - Eatery The morning darshan has left our souls rejuvenated to face the crowded and turbulent world once again. Now we head to the famous 'Ram Bhandar', a small roadside eatery that has shot to fame because of its sumptuous breakfast menu of Sabji-kachori and jalebi. Be prepared to wait for at least an hour before you get your breakfast and to eat it practically sitting on the roadside, that too in a dingy lane. My Tip - In all honesty, there was a lot of hype around this eatery, so we came like everyone else before us. Sorry for the spoiler, but the food was average, not worth the effort and the wait! Ideally, this should not be on the must-see list but everyone will tell you to go to Ram Bhandar, so I thought it's wise to give a heads-up. 4. Bengali Tola Varanasi has always been known to attract sages and saints from all walks of life. One such saint is Mahavatar Babaji, or the deathless Guru as he is called. It is believed that he is the human incarnation of Lord Shiva himself. His disciple, Lahiri Mahasya's ashram is in Bengali Tola in Varanasi. I read about this many years ago in the book 'Autobiography of a Yogi' by Paramhansa Yogananda. The urge to see the ashram has lingered in my mind ever since. So, after breakfast, we head to Bengali Tola. We walk through the narrow lanes and by-lanes of Varanasi for at least half an hour, enquiring from passersby about the Lahiri Mahasya Ashram. Finally, we reach the ashram only to learn that it is not open to the public at all times. We waited for about an hour near the Ganga-ghat for the ashram to open. The ashram is a small residential complex of Lahiri Mahasya, with statues of Mahavatar Babaji and Satya Charan Lahiri and a small temple. It's not a museum, it's just about the life of Lahiri ji and how he got catapulted from being an ordinary man to the status of sainthood. My Tip - The ashram is not spectacular if that's what one expects. But there is a magnetism in that place that is hard to miss. We spent about 30 minutes in the ashram, soaking in the spiritual vibe all around. A small cave room for Mahavatar Babaji and Mahasya Lahiri house 5. Sankat Mochan Temple Varanasi is home to a lot of temples. This temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman, the monkey God, is held in great reverence by Hindus. The temple has scores of monkeys living in and around it. The saint poet Tulsidas, who wrote the Ramayana, established this temple in the 16th century. My Tip - The temple attracts lots of visitors but it is fairly organised and the massive queues keep moving, so waiting time is very little. 6. Durga Temple Very close to the Sankat Mochan Temple is the Durga Temple. This is one of the most famous temples in Varanasi since the folklore states that the idol of Ma Durga in this temple was not made by human hands. It is believed to have appeared on its own at the site of the temple. My Tip - If you're a believer, then one doesn't need any coaxing to visit the temple of Durga Mata. 7. Godowlia Chowk Your visit to Varanasi is incomplete without spending one evening scouting around the famous Godowlia Chowk. The entire zone is pedestrian-only and you will find a sea of people thronging the shops and eateries there. Some famous eateries that offer mouth-watering delights are Kashi Chat Bhandar and Deena Chat Bhandar. These places offer delicious local Banarasi fare at very reasonable prices and are really crowded. I have never seen so many people waiting to eat in a restaurant ever. And the best part is there is no jostling or pushing, people are just patiently standing around in groups, waiting for their turn. My Tip - We have seen so many town squares in so many cities of the world, which are pedestrian zones. But the rustic country vibe in this chowk is amazing. 8. Sarnath The next morning we travel about 13 km to see Sarnath. Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon in Sarnath and founded Buddhism. The entire complex has many stupas and an 80-foot-tall statue of Lord Buddha. The place is clean and quiet, one can easily spend two hours seeing the sights, including the famous Ashoka Pillar with the Indian Emblem on it. There are some more temples built by China, Japan and Sri Lanka too. The place has a lot of historical significance and is fun to watch. My Tip - The moment we reached the parking slot in Sarnath, all kinds of guides thronged us from all sides. Most of them claim that they are students at the university nearby and are doing this as a part of their training. Please make it a point to check their ID to see if they are authorised guides. The guide we got cooked up some fictional stories and facts to entertain us, which I later discovered, was all false. So, be choosy when it comes to hiring a guide. Certify his credentials before he starts with his stories. If you're travelling with kids, then they would be thrilled to see so many historical artefacts in one place. Replica of our National Emblem Buddha temple, the 80-foot-tall statue in Sarnath and the Stupa 9. Ganga River Cruise In the evening, we have bookings for a cruise on the river Ganges that goes by the name of Alaknanda Cruises. The cruise starts at 5:45 pm each day from Assi Ghat and ends at 7:30 pm, bringing you back to the same point. The air-conditioned boat has provisions for refreshments and some beverages. It has a PA system that runs a commentary in both Hindi and English as it sails by the various ghats. The beautiful temple complex is lit up at night! The boat goes down the river, showcasing the entire history of Varanasi which is intricately entwined with its 84 ghats. My Tip - The boat cruise is a wonderful experience. The entire history of Varanasi has been put on display here along the banks of the river. The commentary is crystal clear and very informative. The boat goes past the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Manikarnika Ghat... By the end of the ride, the boat parks itself close to the Dashashwamedh Ghat for a spectacular Ganga Arti. The scene at the Arti has to be experienced, it cannot be expressed in plain words. 10. Evening Arti at Dashashwamedh Ghat There are people everywhere, in front of the ghat, on boats, big and small, on boat cruises, on luxury boats of the nearby hotels, perched on rooftops all around the ghat, on the streets nearby, everywhere. The Ganga Arti starts with the customary jingling of bells and conches and then the fire is lit in big brass lamps to worship the river Ganges and its master Lord Shiva. People on the boat scramble to the side of the Arti and watch the spectacle with bated breath. The distinct blue pillars of Dashashwamedh Ghat, the brightly lit umbrella-like canopies, and the sound of conches and bhajans as they echo on the gentle rustling waters of the Ganges create a dazzling effect for the pilgrims. The Arti and the pageantry surrounding it will remain etched in our minds forever! This is undoubtedly a must-see attraction. Spellbinding experience of the Ganga Arti If you have time, then you can explore the vast variety of rich Banarasi silk sarees. There are shops all over the city offering goods for all kinds of budgets. The prices at most shops are negotiable, so you can try your bargaining skills! We spent three days on the streets of Varanasi, looking at the sights, soaking in the raw exuberance of life here, tasting its many delicious delights, visiting temples or just looking at them from the outside because there is a temple at every nook and corner of the city, even saw death being celebrated so closely, listening with awe to the folklore.. At the end of it all, I realized that people come to Varanasi to find salvation, to find themselves. And the ones who truly find themselves are the ones who have the courage to lose themselves in the crowds here!

  • To Paradise and Back - On a Houseboat in the Backwaters of Kerala

    ' Kerala - God's own country,' a catchphrase introduced by Kerala Tourism is truly an apt reflection of this southernmost state of India, nestled cosily in the western ghats along the Malabar Coast. The state is blessed with a rich bio-diversity, lush green forests, vast tea plantations and backwaters. And sailing on one of these backwaters of Kerala which is a network of canals, lagoons and lakes running along the Malabar Coast, can be an exhilarating experience. We flew from Delhi to Kochi for this journey. From Kochi, we hired a cab to reach Alappuzha or Alleppey as it is commonly known. It's a distance of 53 km that can be covered in about 90 minutes. Alleppey is world-renowned as the backwater tourist destination of India. The backwaters in Alleppey are spread over an area of 300 sq km. There are various options available to stay in Alleppey, both on or near the backwaters. We had made our bookings for an overnight Houseboat cruise with Spice Route Luxury Cruises , a company that specializes in conducting boat cruises on the Alleppey backwaters. We had high expectations from this trip since we had read that quite a few celebrities have also stayed on this boat for an overnight cruise. There are many kinds of boats depending upon the number of people in your group. We had opted for 'Saffron', a boat with one bedroom for a couple. Upon reaching Alleppey, we travelled through rustic bylanes to reach the Spice Route Office. The office turns out to be a vintage villa that also serves as an embarking centre for the boats. The dream boat 'Saffron' We're greeted with warm smiles and traditional garlands before getting on Saffron. The boat has a crew of 3 dedicated staff to look after the two of us! The driver or captain of the boat, a cook and a caretaker. 'Saffron' is like a dream sailing on the water. It has a traditional thatched roof from the outside and an uber-luxurious interior, very tastefully done, as promised on the Spice Routes website. It offers all the luxuries and amenities one can imagine on a small cruise boat. The air-conditioned boat has a small bar, a lounge area, a sundeck on the first floor, and an amazing massive jacuzzi in the spacious bathroom. We spent the first hour exploring the boat with childlike enthusiasm and clicking pictures. The three-man staff go about their business to get our lunch ready. 5-star accommodation and facilities on board...this is as luxurious as it can get! In about an hour, a sumptuous lunch comprising of delicious fish curry is served with rice and various accompaniments. The caretaker had enquired about our food preferences at the start of the journey itself. After lunch, we spend a lazy afternoon on the sundeck. The boat moves at a very leisurely pace giving ample time for the cool sea breeze to swirl around us in soft manoeuvres. The friendly hum of the boat's engine is broken only by the chirping of birds and the gently cascading waters as it sails past small villages and paddy fields. Hearing the sound of silence! The entire area around the Alleppey backwater is lined with quaint villages that appear to have been frozen in time. The water line along the coast is dotted with charming houses with thatched roofs and small verandahs facing the water body. One can spend the entire day looking at the flurry of activity taking place here. People use this water for washing, bathing and doing their everyday chores. The caretaker informs us that we can get out of the boat to see one of the villages, get an Ayurvedic massage done, talk to locals, inspect the paddy fields and even get a hand-picked fish or lobster for our dinner that evening. The last two options sound very appealing. A little before dusk, we step out into the village nearby and take a walk to the nearby paddy fields. We picked a big tiger prawn from a nearby vendor for our dinner that evening. The prawn was cooked to perfection. A walk in the nearby paddy fields till dusk falls! The day happened to be our wedding anniversary, and as a special surprise gesture, we even got to cut a cake on the boat. At night, the boat docks around 10 km away into the backwaters. The dark water all around is absolutely still, suddenly there is commotion and beams of light come out of nowhere. I wake up to see lots of small boats around full of people, shouting out to each other, ferrying everyday goods from one boat to another, maybe for their own use or for tourists who are staying all along the water line. After an hour or so of brouhaha, the dark quiet of the water returns. The next morning, we woke up to a glorious sunrise visible from our room and the appetizing smell of freshly cooked Appams* and chicken stew that they had cooked on our request. Sunrise on the Alleppey backwaters The boat comes back to the point where it started the day earlier at Alleppey at around 10:30 in the morning. The staff bids us a warm farewell, and we, in turn, thank them for their hospitality. This was a one-day trip on a houseboat into paradise and back! *Appam is a thin pancake made from fermented rice batter and coconut milk.

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